Wrinkles are the most visible manifestation of the natural aging process, appearing as permanent creases that vary in number and depth depending on several factors.
Causes:
- muscle movements
- sun exposure
- gravitational force
- night posture
- loss of subcutaneous adipose tissue
- Slowing of dermal production of collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin, cartilage
- genetic factors
- hormonal factors
- Personal habits (alcohol, smoking, diet)
Depending on the characteristics, wrinkles can be classified according to one classification system (but there are others) into 3 major groups:
- Expression wrinkles
- Gravitational wrinkles
- Actinic wrinkles
EXPRESSION W rinkles arise from the repeated contraction of the facial mimic muscles; they are also called mimic wrinkles and give the face its natural expressiveness. They are present even in young skin, clearly visible in the 30s and tend to become more pronounced with age.
The mimic muscles generate certain expression lines over time:
- Horizontal frontal wrinkles, are located on the forehead and have a horizontal pattern;
- Glabellar wrinkles, between the nose and eyebrows, can have a horizontal or vertical pattern;
- Suborbital periocular wrinkles, the well-known "crow's feet," are the wrinkles around the eyes;
- Nasogenic furrows, also called "nasolabials" or "parentheses," are the lines that start from the side of the nose and reach the corner of the mouth.
- Perilabial wrinkles, also known as "Bar Code," are those around the upper lip.
- Lesser-known labiogenic wrinkles affect the lower lip: they call them " sadness wrinkles" or "marionette wrinkles" .
- Transverse wrinkles of the neck, also known as the "collar of Venus."
GRAVITATIONAL WRINKLES form, with advancing age, as the supporting structures of the dermis (elastic fibers and collagen bundles) weaken, resulting in sagging of various areas of the face (chin, lips, nose, eyelids, eyebrow, jawbone, neck, double chin, drooping arms.). This reduction in tone, combined with the reduction of skeletal bone tissue (most evident in the mandible) also decreases its ability to resist gravity.
In the neck area, in old age, the skin will tend to hang down.
Labiogenic wrinkles, are also a type of gravity wrinkles, not just expression wrinkles.
ACTINIC WRINKLES, on the other hand, are diffuse very fine wrinkles, like very thin furrows, have the appearance of "crumpled parchment" and are caused by photo-aging (photoaging): they are the consequence of excessive exposure to solar radiation that damages the most exposed skin cellular matrix ( cheeks) of elastic fibers (elastosis) and collagen.
They are basically a severe loss of skin elasticity that accentuates aging.
TIPS:
Gentle cleansing and exfoliating;
Exfoliating the skin: yes to chemical exfoliants with AHAs and PHAs;
Moisturizing the skin;
Always protect your skin from the sun, avoiding the hottest hours and always applying an Spf higher than 30;
Choose the right cosmetics, formulated for all skin types and with an age-slowing effect ( antiaging, anti-aging, slow downs aging) , look for these types of ingredients:
- Antioxidants, to be applied systematically, including polyphenols;
- Vitamins A, E, C,B3 ( Niacinamide), Provitamin B5 (Panthenol);
- Essential fatty acids ( omega-6 and omega-3)
- Moisturizing and humectant molecules;
- Smoothing, exfoliating, cellular tourn over stimulating molecules;
- Depigmenting molecules, inhibitors of melanin production;
- Anti-pollution molecules;
- Peptides galore;
- Soft focus agents, optical wrinkle reducers;