The skin is the largest organ in the human body, averaging a surface area of 2 square meters for a weight of 3kg. It is a very complex organ that protects us from the outside world and where tactile, thermal and pain sensitivity also reside.
It is through the skin that our body begins to defend itself against UV radiation.
One of its macroscopic characters is its color, which depends on the interaction of certain pigments found in the epidermis and the vascularization of the dermis (blood and blood vessels also affect skin color).
The epidermis contains two pigments: melanin and caratenoids.
Melanin, a brown, reddish or black pigment is produced by melanocytes, its release is the main determinant of skin, eye iris and hair color; in fact, there are different phototypes, and melanin, which is able to absorb ultraviolet radiation, plays an important role in photo protection.
The different phototypes are related to the type of melanin present.
Factors responsible for melanin production in the skin are related to age, ethnicity, lifestyle, UV radiation, and hormones.
Different skin phototypes generally have a constant number of melanocytes, what makes them different is the size and number of melanosomes (these are vesicles where melanin synthesis occurs for photo stimulation), how much melanin they store, and how they are transferred from melanocytes to keratinocytes.
Darker skin has more and larger melanosomes than lighter skin.
There are two types of melanin: - Eumelanin, brownish-black in color present in skin and hair, more abundant in dark phototypes; - Phaeomelanin, red-yellow in color, found mainly in lighter phototypes and in women.
The skin protects itself from the sun, and this photo protection is achieved by a chemical process that converts UV energy. The natural melanin produced is formed by the process of metabolizing the amino acid tyrosine. Melanin formation occurs by a biochemical process called melanogenesis, carried out by melanocytes synthesizing the enzyme tyrosinase, which converts tyrosine to melanin. Melanin is synthesized within melanosomes, these then migrate through melanocyte extensions and are transferred from the basal layer to the upper layers of the epidermis to keratinocytes, where melanin plays its protective role against UV radiation.
Melanogenesis is basically a process of melanin synthesis and accumulation by melanocytes, which is usually activated by sunlight.
LOCALIZED SKIN DISCOLORATIONS
They are generally due to an excess or defect of melanin.
Instead, there are cases in which they also depend on carotenoids and hemoglobin.
What are skin discolorations caused by?
Genetic factors;
Hormonal factors;
Aging;
Aging photo;
Pathologies;
Autoimmune diseases;
Smoking, alcohol, stress;
Skin trauma, sunburn;
Medications;
Use of cosmetics that are poorly formulated or unsuitable for one's skin;
LOCALIZED HYPOPIGMENTATIONS
Vitiligo is characterized by a lack of pigment in some areas of the skin, caused by a progressive inactivation of melanocytes, so that the skin appears to be light-spotted.
TIPS:
The most important advice of all: consult your dermatologist, because before you can identify the best treatment you need to know the status of the melanocytes, whether they are still present or whether it is an irreversible state.
Always apply a SPF higher than 30; sunscreen is essential in these cases to protect against sunburn and erythema.
Self-tanners can be helpful, always with medical advice.
Cosmetic camouflage: these are products often recommended by dermatologists themselves that are called "camouflage", they are different from traditional cosmetics, they have the characteristic of being opaque and waterproof and blend with the color of the skin where they are applied. in the form of creams, liquids, powders, they differ from cosmetics
HYPERPIGMENTATIONS
Excess melanin production can cause a phenomenon known as hyperpigmentation, affecting even only certain areas: the appearance of dark spots.
Skin spots increase with skin aging, which is also accelerated by other factors such as smoke, smog, wind, free radicals, and especially the sun.In fact, it is the areas most exposed to the sun, such as the face, hands, neck, shoulders, and ears, that are most likely to become stained.
HYPERMELANOSES (Hyperpigmentations caused by the accumulation of melanin) , basically the most common skin spots, can be:
SOLAR LENTIGO: These are spots of varying shape and size (usually no more than a centimeter) that appear on the face, neck and hands and where you have been sunburned. They tend to darken when you sunbathe, and their cause is precisely excessive sun exposure.
LENTIGO SENILE: This type of skin blemishes, in addition to being caused by prolonged exposure to UV radiation over time, are also caused by aging: in fact, the skin also loses its regenerative abilities with the passage of time, and generally this type of hyperpigmentation is constant even when not sunbathing.
MELASMA: Commonly called "hormonal spots, it is a hypermelanosis triggered by hormonal factors and occurring in the cheek areas, around the lips, on the forehead, chin, but also in other areas of the body, as brown patches that darken in the sun, triggering their color and duration. Being caused by hormonal overstimulation, it is very common in pregnant women, during pill use and menopause (CLOASMA). Melasma is also determined by a genetic predisposition. However, it can also be triggered by thyroid disorders.
CONTACT HYPERMELANOSIS: Caused by photosensitizing cosmetics, some perfumes and irritating chemicals.
PHARMACEUTICAL HYPERMELANOSIS: Some drugs can cause spots of more or less dark intensity even without sun exposure.
POST INFIAMMATIC HYPERMELANOSIS: Skin inflammation due to physical trauma, acne, chemical peels, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, lasers, waxing, can result in the formation of skin spots, especially in darker phototypes; sometimes these hyperpigmentations can take a long time to resolve, even may be permanent.
LENTILS: These are those small localized punctiform spots that tend to converge on the face, shoulders, arms and hands, and other areas of the body typical of light phototypes. The sun affects very little; they are permanent spots.
EPHELIDS: Not to be confused with freckles, despite the similarity, ephelids are of variable temporality because they are subject to sun exposure and partial regression as the tan wanes.
TIPS:
SUNSCREEN;
EXFOLIARE;
USE COSMETIC FORMULATIONS WITH MELANIN INHIBITORS;
USE COSMETIC FORMULATIONS WITH ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVES;
Going into specifics:
SUN PROTECTION: It should never, but really never lack an spf50, insisting with a practical stick always spf50 in the area where hyperpigmentation is present, precisely because sunscreen products have the ability to limit the production of melanin; It is always recommended to avoid exposure during the hottest hours.
EXFOLIATING: Exfoliating products, peels, are accelerators of cellular tourn over that go to promote the removal of impurities and dead cells present in the most superficial layer of the skin with the aim of liberating the lighter, brighter and smoother underlying layers. To diminish blemishes, sometimes even succeeding in eliminating them, exfoliating cosmetics are used for both home and professional use: The AHAs, PHAs, BHAs.
AHAs , are the Alpha-hydroxy-acids, also known as fruit acids, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, can be used alone in the right concentrations or in combination with each other in ready-made formulations, depending on the skin type and its degree of sensitivity. Generally, the quickest ones are glycolic and lactic, which also have different functions depending on their concentration in the formula and the application time. However, they can often be irritating and sensitizing and absolutely need a very high sunscreen; more gentle among the AHAs are malic and mandelic;
BHAs, the only oil-soluble ones, also penetrate deeper and have the ability to dissolve sebum, so in fighting blemishes they have more of a preventive function, as they improve the appearance of oily, large-pore, blackhead and acne-prone skin by decreasing the formation of pimple scars resulting in blemishes.
PHAs: Very much in vogue today as an alternative to AHAs are PHAs, such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, which unlike AHAs, greatly decrease adverse reactions such as burning, sensitization, itching, and swelling.
RETINOIDS, Vitamin A and its derivatives, are often used in the treatment of skin discolorations of hyperkeratosis, acne, and photo-induced aging. The most immediate results, however, are those given by outpatient treatments.
INHIBITING MELANINE: There substances used in cosmetic formulas, capable of inhibiting melanic pigment synthesis, such as:
SNAIL SLIME, performs multiple functions, contains vitamins, amino acids, peptides, collagen, elastin, allantoin, glycolic acid : it has multiple benefits on the skin and if bwnformulated with other ingredients its depigmenting action manages to be important.
KOJIC ACID, a functional depigmenting agent, antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal, and melanogenesis inhibitor that can, however, above a concentration of 1% sensitize the skin.
VITAMIN C, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, necessary for collagen production, also works as a photo protectant because it goes to deactivate free radicals induced by sunlight, so it is an excellent antioxidant, plus it has a modest lightening effect, and is considered an excellent ingredient for preventing age spots.
AZELAIC ACID: It is a functional substance that affects melanocyte activity on two fronts: either by preventing tyrosinase activity and thus reducing melanin formation, or by inhibiting DNA synthesis and mitochondrial oxidoreductase activity in the melanocyte. It has good depigmenting action on solar and senile keratoses and melasma. It also has good anti-inflammatory keratolytic and bacteriostatic activity, so it is also very suitable in cases of rosacea and acne.
AZELOGLICIN: It is a derivative of azelaic acid and has lightening (regulates melanocyte production) and sebum normalizing, moisturizing and elasticizing properties.
ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVES:
VITAMIN E, a powerful antioxidant whose properties are well known, also interferes with lipid peroxidation of melanocytes ( melanogenesis is induced by the pro-oxidant action of solar radiation) and consequently with melanin production.
ARBUTIN, is a natural hydroquinone glycoside extracted from bearberry, an inhibitor of tyrosinase (enzyme that catalyzes the transformation of tyrosine into melanin), but less toxic than hydroquinone.
METIL GENTISATE, ester derived from gentian root, tyrosinase inhibitor.
ELLAGIC ACID, a polyphenol extracted from pomegranate, strawberry and green tea, milder than arbutin and kojic agic, it too inhibits melanin production by acting directly on tyrosinase.
NIACINAMIDE, a dose-dependent molecule (its functions are very much related to the rate of use), in addition to restoring the skin barrier, reducing signs of aging and sebum production, has a depigmenting action by inhibiting the transfer of mature melanosomes into keratinocytes.
REVESVERATROL: a potent tyrosinase inhibitor, as well as a powerful antioxidant.
ALOESIN , aloe vera derivative, tyrosinase inhibitor of hydrophilic nature that works well in combination with arbutin (which is able to penetrate deeper)
LICORICE EXTRACT: Inhibits tyrosinase activity and slows pigment synthesis, removes, depending on how much is used in the formula, melanin accumulated in the uppermost layer of the skin.
